History of Surfing

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Young, Nat
5,47 MB
History of Surfing.pdf


The History of Surfing by world champion surfer Nat Young shares the history, stories, and inside expertise gathered in his years of deep involvement with the sport of surfing. The History of Surfing covers the full gamut, including the history, professionalism, surfboard evolution, professional surfers, the Hawaiian Islands, kneeboards, wave skills, windsurfers, and the future of surfing. Exclusive rare color photos covering surfing’s exciting past and present bring to life one of the most exciting and stunningly beautiful sports in the world. This book is the result of a lifetime of involvement with surfing and a deep interest in its history, and includes Nat’s discussions with the greats of the sport, from Duke Kahanmoku to contemporary stars like Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson. Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing, along with the work of the world’s best surf photographers, including portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen.

From Hawaii, the sport laid dormant until a handful of world-class swimmers showcased it to the world. In Polynesian culture, surfing was an important activity.Modern surfing as we know it today is thought to have originated in Hawaii.The history of surfing in Hawaii refers back to the 4th-century CE where Polynesians began to make their way to the Hawaiian Islands from Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands.They brought many of their customs with them including playing in the surf on Paipo (belly ... Surfing wasn't dead in the Hawaiian Islands in the late 1800s, but it was drowning, along with most Hawaiian customs and most Hawaiians. After 125 years of Hawaiian-European contact/ conquest, the haole had tried to exercise control over just about everything Hawaiian: their Gods, their culture, their magic, their land and their lives. History.

Although the act of riding a wave started as a religious/cultural tradition, surfing rapidly transformed into a global water sport. The popularity of surfing is the result of events, innovations, influential people, and technological developments. Consensus on the history of surfing credits the Polynesians for the invention of the 'Olo Surf Board,' which they couldn't leave behind when they settled the Hawaiian Islands around 400 C.E.